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    連續兩個週末,MOT/TIMES 都將跟著金馬團隊到宜蘭旅行去嚕!美食、舊城、農田、文學,都是認識宜蘭的好方法,走在宜蘭小巷內,微涼的風迎面拂來,大口呼吸,原來這就是宜蘭的味道啊!在此,讓 MOT/TIMES 為各讀者獻上這趟宜蘭美食散策現場紀實。
     
    這趟金馬宜蘭美食散策,由老爺大酒店執行長沈方正領軍,帶領著金馬團隊一群人,花了一天的時間,努力的攻下了宜蘭美食高大山頭,文昌宮廟前的阿南米粉羹、一香飲食店的麻醬麵和餛飩湯、四海居小吃部的白斬雞、海鮮綜合拼盤、白粉圓冰、作家黃春明特有的春明餅……哇,光看著這些名稱,肚子就不爭氣地大唱空城計,幸好,還有場「嘸魚蝦嘛好」的美食散策文字紀實,快拿出你的智慧型手機,把這些美食店家名字標記好,就在這週末,前往宜蘭,撫慰看完文章後空虛的肚皮吧。
    散策,出於日文,帶有隨意走走又不忘欣賞四周風景的意思。原本只覺得這名詞有點拗口,但因非慣常用法,有了一層膈膜,就較散步多了幾分遐想,彷彿是比文青熱愛的小旅行還迂迴的生活體驗。那天,起了大早,趕上從臺北開往宜蘭的自強號,沿途隧道像是旋轉壽司運送食物的軌道,帶我一步步接近美食散策起點。

    有段跟美食散策無關的題外話是,每次到東部,喜歡搭乘火車勝過客運。因為火車會經過一截一截隧道,黑暗了之後有天光,才剛適應光線又被送進溫柔的偽夜裡。每次搭東部幹線,順著海岸或山線運行,也總是覺得要透過火車的速度,才能看到東部山海不假修飾的美麗。

    回到正題。10點整集合宜蘭火車站前的一行人,想必都和我一樣,已騰出半空胃囊,準備盛裝期待已久的蘭陽味。「諸位可能多數來自都市,但在今天希望大家能放下矜持,好好認識身旁一起散步的團員,也大口吃喝陸續登場的各家美食!」帥氣的老爺大酒店執行長沈方正是當天領路人,爽朗地做了段元氣十足的開場。

        
     
    在地建築看門道

    秋冬經常陰雨綿綿的蘭陽平原,美食散策週末恰好是秋老虎不甘寂寞的大好晴日,大夥兒走上橫跨宜蘭河、掛在慶和橋旁的津梅棧道,沈方正要我們看看腳下彷彿用水溝蓋拼湊的步道,「會不會有點怕怕的啊?」鏤空鋼條讓棧道上的人們,得以看見腳下綠藍相間的河岸,突然有種走吊橋的雀躍。

    散散落落不趕路的一群人,慢慢走到宜蘭河河堤公園,沈方正邀大家坐在草地上吹吹風,「這片河堤現在看起來風和日麗,一片平靜,但是當颱風天一來,河水就漫成汪洋了。」從河面抬頭望向四周景色,橋上長出一棟屋子的西堤屋橋,連結了河堤公園和社會福利館,因此穿過有小葉欖仁遮蔭的橋身,便來到社福館這棟大概是宜蘭最有名的「違章建築」了,用建築術語說是「量體破碎化」,建築師黃聲遠用紅磚、水泥牆、鋁窗、鐵皮屋頂,拼拼湊湊這棟看起來像拆了一半,又像蓋到一半的公務機關館舍。但從社福廣場後方的光大巷回頭看向社福館(下圖),才發現社福館就像從光大巷老社區長出來的同系列民居,老建築與新建築交融,形成新的當地特色建築,心中頓時明白,原來這就是黃聲遠在宜蘭做的事啊!

        

    廟口舊街老市場

    因為自己從小住在繁華的夜市商圈,對小吃總有一份難以言述的情結,知道某攤衛生不佳但仍大排長龍,知道某號稱第一家名店其實是搶奪了至親商標而來,知道了攤販商家背後的恩怨情仇,小吃吃起來,味道實在錯綜複雜。不過,也因為這樣,到了外地,反而更能享受食物的滋味,誰家埋怨誰人,就完全不甘己事了。

    跟著沈方正一路找美食吃,可以感受到他對在地風味的熱情;這趟旅程,先以文昌宮廟埕的阿南米粉羹(下圖中)替大夥兒暖暖胃,米粉羹應該算是宜蘭特有的庶民餐點,既能當作晨間早食,也可以是午後點心,一碗25元份量很飽實,粗米粉、甜不辣、菜脯、香菜勾芡成羹,再灑點胡椒粉、黑醋,這種介於正餐與點心之間的湯食,早上吃了頗有提神飲料「儲存明阿仔氣力」的效果。隨後送入五臟廟的王品豆花(下圖右),是沈方正心目中全臺前3名的神級豆花,老闆娘說,不但豆花是用黃豆研磨自製,粉圓也是自家揉粉熬煮,在這麼費功耗時的用心之後,吃進嘴裡就是毫無負擔的滑嫩。

            

    稍有飽足感後,大家起身稍微走逛了下演藝廳大宅院市集,接著便前往宜蘭市內市百年北館市場,市場內攤商招牌形制統一,雖然整齊,但過往看得見老闆個性的店招也就被移除了。待大家併桌就坐,一香飲食店的麻醬麵和餛飩湯(下圖中),四海居小吃部的綜合拼盤(下圖右)、白斬雞,同時間全端上桌,眾人一陣詫然之後便是埋頭苦吃;眼前的麻醬麵看來小小一碗,翻轉攪拌後才發現醬濃麵多,這時再喝口餛飩湯,搭配得正好!

            

    當然大家也沒冷落餐桌中央的拼盤:鯊魚煙、豬頭肉、白斬雞、曼波魚,章魚腳,山珍海味都備齊了,「我們的海鮮是每天早上新鮮送來,雞肉都用放山雞,料都很好喲!」美麗親切的服務小姐,一邊端詳大夥兒吃相一邊介紹著,正當同桌團伴大呼飽到站不起身,我偷偷瞄到斜後方一位太太正吃得滿足,一碗有鮮蝦、豬肝、蚵仔10幾種料的什錦麵和現切大盤雞肉,光欣賞就很過癮。吃飽喝足起身時,已見沈執行長手上拎了大包小包外帶,其中還有一包剛剛客人未點但老闆會錯意送上的食物,就聽見執行長說:「那包給我就好!」我想,這不僅是喜愛美味,也包含了對市井生意人家的體貼。
     
    口丟口丟噹飲咖啡

    接下來的北館市場導覽也算是此行中極為難得的經驗,可愛的鄰長身兼百年青草店老闆,請大夥一人一片篸光口齒留香後,帶著我們沿路逛布莊、魚具行、春捲皮攤、壽桃鋪(左圖)、臘肉肉鬆店,舊市場的氣味本就是百味雜陳,所有民需用品應有盡有,大家此時也樂得又試吃又採買,直接將文青的散策活動轉換為觀光模式,慶幸總算回家有伴手禮可交代了。

    接著在晚上進電影院欣賞金馬影展片前,金馬團隊還為大家安排了一個文青休憩站,即是從1930年留存至今的百果樹紅磚屋(左下圖),欣賞了一齣黃春明老師的兒童劇《愛吃糖的皇帝》,雖然劇情是以愛吃甜食比喻喜聽讒言的頃襄王,最後棄絕了要皇帝多吃正餐忠言的屈原,但臺下的我們卻恰與皇帝同一陣線,開心品嚐以麵粉、橘皮、芝麻和黑糖研製的「春明餅」(右下圖);吃著喝著笑著,戲散之後,在等待電影上演的空檔,心想:哎呀,這一回散策,總算能說自己紮紮實實跨過舊城門檻看門道了。

      

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